Frequently Asked Questions

Your lawn must receive 1 ½ - 2 inches of water per week through natural rainfall and/or irrigation. It is best to water deeply and infrequently rather than daily, light watering.

The optimal height for a cool-season grass is 2 ½ - 3 inches. And at each mowing, you should only be removing about the top 1/3 of the grass blade. Only mow with a sharp blade when the grass is dry. It’s best to avoid mowing during the hottest part of the day.

Using the right mowing techniques, you can improve the health of your lawn and prevent burnt-looking spots that appear after mowing. One common cause of burnt spots in lawns is dull lawn mower blades. If the blades of grass in your lawn look jagged and torn after mowing, it is time to sharpen your mower blades. Mowing during the hottest times of day can also cause your lawn to turn brown. We recommend mowing later in the afternoon or early evening.

Red thread is a common cause of patches of discolored grass during wet summers and in autumn. Red thread will rarely kill the grass, and the patches will recover once weather conditions return to normal.

It is highly recommended to leave the clippings on the lawn. Clippings break down quickly and return valuable nutrients to your lawn. 

Contrary to what some believe about rainwater washing product away, the truth is that rain helps activate granular material in the soil. Even if it pours, very little product (if any) will be lost to runoff since the tiny granules dissolve before they can be washed away.

Poor drainage/wet soils: Moss grows well in wet, compacted soils. A lawn does not grow well in compacted soils because of the lack of air, water and nutrients moving through the soil to the roots. Soil compaction also prevents good drainage, allowing a favorable spot for moss to grow instead of grass.

We only recommend dethatching when a serious thatch buildup exists, in excess of ¾”. Dethatching removes healthy roots and grass and should only be done when absolutely necessary. Our turf professionals will check the thatch layer and advise you if dethatching is necessary.

It is a common myth that moles feed on grubs, and by controlling grubs you can eliminate the moles. In reality, the primary food source of moles is earthworms. Moles are best controlled with baits and traps.

Japanese beetles lay grubs that eat the roots of your lawn. Grubs turn into beetles that eat your garden. Yes, two of the most hated garden pests are one and the same! Japanese beetles lay eggs in your lawn that turn into lawn grubs in late July or early August.

To check, lift a dead piece of your turf. If Grubs are the culprit, the dead patch will roll up like a carpet, or you'll be able to pull up the grass and see that it has no roots. Irregularly shaped dead patches appear in your well-irrigated lawn in late summer or early fall when grubs are present. Birds and other small animals picking at your grass are also indicators of grub life. Call us immediately if you suspect grub activity.

All the products we use have been through rigorous testing by the EPA and have been registered for use where people and pets live, work and play. When used according to label directions, they pose little to no risk.

We only use products registered for use by the EPA. Our experts are trained in the proper use of these products. When used according to label directions, these products pose little to no risk. Post application instructions are always left to ensure the best and safest results.

We apply the appropriate rates and types of fertilizer to prevent leaching and/or runoff. Our fertilizers primarily stay within the root profile of your lawn and are used by the lawn.

When we apply fertilizer near a body of water, we use professional practices and are extremely careful in ensuring no fertilizer gets into the water.